Bob's Bits: The Deceptively Simple Fly Pattern That Keeps on Delivering

Some of the most effective fly patterns in existence weren't born in a commercial tying lab or dreamed up by a professional guide chasing sponsorship deals. They were born out of necessity, ingenuity, and — in the case of Bob's Bits — a well-worn fishing jumper. This legendary stillwater dry fly has earned its place in tackle boxes across the UK and beyond, and for good reason: it works. Mario from MF Fly Tying recently sat down at the vice to walk through the tying process, and what emerged was not just a tutorial, but a love letter to simple, effective fly fishing.

The Story Behind the Pattern

Every great fly has an origin story, and Bob's Bits is no exception. The pattern is attributed to a fly fisherman named Bob Wartz, believed to have been a local to Grafham Water — one of England's most celebrated stillwater trout fisheries. According to the legend that surrounds this fly, Bob didn't reach for expensive dubbing materials or specialist synthetics when he first tied this pattern. He went to his wardrobe.

"The original tying of this fly, my understanding is he used to use wool from his old fishing jumpers — hence the name Bob's Bits." — Mario, MF Fly Tying

Whether every detail of that story holds up to historical scrutiny is open to debate, but the spirit of it captures something essential about grassroots fly tying: remarkable things can come from the most humble of materials. The fly was designed primarily to represent a midge — or to use the regional term, a MIJ — and its understated construction makes it a natural match for these delicate, ever-present insects that trout feed on throughout the season.

What Makes Bob's Bits So Effective?

At first glance, Bob's Bits looks almost too simple to be taken seriously as a trout fly. There's no elaborate wing, no complex multi-stage body, no articulated tail. And yet, it consistently draws up fish when more elaborate patterns fail. The secret lies in a combination of profile, presentation, and the subtle movement of its materials on the water's surface.

The fly is tied in the round — meaning the hackle radiates outward from the hook shank in all directions — which gives it a low, flush-floating profile that sits right in the surface film. This is precisely where trout expect to find emerging or trapped midges, making the fly's position on the water as important as its silhouette. The brushed-out dubbing fibres further enhance this effect, mimicking the scrappy, struggling appearance of an insect caught at the surface.

"Any of those fibres will look like legs, but they'll also just help the fly to float a little bit as well by trapping some of the air in between the fibres." — Mario, MF Fly Tying

Choosing Your Materials

One of the most appealing aspects of Bob's Bits is its material flexibility. The pattern doesn't demand any single proprietary material, and tyers are encouraged to experiment and adapt based on what they have available. That said, there are some components worth paying careful attention to if you want to optimise the fly's performance.

Hook Selection

Mario ties his Bob's Bits on barbless dry fly hooks from Fario, and his enthusiasm for them is hard to miss. Barbless hooks are increasingly popular among conscientious anglers for their fish-friendly qualities, and a strong, reliable barbless hook is essential for a dry fly pattern that needs to support itself in the surface film without sinking under the weight of a poorly formed gape. The pattern works well in sizes 10, 12, and 14, with Mario personally favouring the 12s and 14s for most of his fishing.

Thread and Ribbing

Black thread is the standard choice here, keeping things clean and traditional. For the rib, a wide range of materials can be used to create that all-important segmented body effect. Mario opts for a brown nickel micro wire from Flybox, but he's quick to point out that this is one area where personal preference reigns supreme.

"You can use some mono — five or six pound mono — you can use some black wire, silver wire. It's entirely up to yourself what you use for the rib." — Mario, MF Fly Tying

The ribbing serves both an aesthetic and a practical purpose: it segments the body to suggest the distinct abdomen sections of a midge, and it also reinforces the dubbing, helping the fly maintain its shape through multiple fish and repeated casting.

The Body Dubbing

For the body of the fly, Mario reaches for Chuck and Duck dubbing — specifically their hair and squirrel blend in black. It's a natural choice for a midge imitation, as the squirrel fibres have a subtle translucency and a slightly coarse texture that comes alive when wet. The Chuck and Duck brand has built a strong reputation in the fly tying community, and while they're best known for their specialist dubbing materials, their broader range of tying materials is well worth exploring.

The Hackle

An Indian or Chinese cock hackle completes the fly. This is a widely available and affordable option that suits the pattern perfectly. When selecting your hackle feather, you're looking for proportionate fibres that match the hook size — too long and the fly loses its compact profile; too short and it won't float effectively. For a size 12, a hackle with fibres roughly 1.5 times the hook gape works well.

Tying the Fly: Step by Step

With materials assembled, the tying process itself is refreshingly straightforward — ideal for beginners looking to build confidence, and satisfying for experienced tyers who appreciate efficiency at the vice.

Begin by laying a foundation of black thread along the hook shank, then dub the body using the squirrel blend, building up a slightly fuller thorax area and working in opposite directions to encourage the fibres to splay outward. Once the body is formed, wind the micro wire rib forward in evenly spaced turns to create that characteristic segmented look, and tie it off neatly at the head before breaking or cutting away the excess.

Before introducing the hackle, take a moment to brush out the dubbed body. This step is easy to skip but important not to. It roughens up the surface of the fly, giving it that lived-in, buggy appearance that trout find irresistible, and it ensures those fibres will be working for you on the water.

Tying in the hackle benefits from one useful trick that Mario highlights: applying a small amount of wax to the thread before securing the hackle stem. This prevents the hackle from slipping during the tying process — a frustratingly common problem with smooth, stiff hackle stems.

"Just add a wee bit of wax to your thread and that will just help it bend down a little bit further. It's obviously sticky because it's wax, and that will stop it from pulling out." — Mario, MF Fly Tying

Once the hackle is secured, crack the stem where it meets the tie-in point by pulling it back firmly. You'll either feel or hear it snap, and this small step ensures the hackle wraps neatly without the stiff butt of the feather creating an unsightly bump. Wind two to three turns of hackle, tie off, and finish with a drop of varnish and a whip finish. Keep the head small and the hackle sparse — that's the essence of this pattern.

Fishing Bob's Bits

Bob's Bits is very much a surface fly, designed to sit right in or just on top of the film where midges are most vulnerable. Trout targeting surface midges can be selective and surprisingly wary, so presentation is everything. Fish the fly on a long, fine leader and resist the temptation to strike too quickly — let the fish turn down before lifting the rod.

The fly truly earns its keep from late spring onwards, becoming especially productive as terrestrial insects begin to fall onto the water through summer and into early autumn. Any warm, calm day that encourages hatching activity is a good day to have a Bob's Bits on your leader.

One honest caveat worth flagging: this is not a fly that floats indefinitely. The natural dubbing fibres and hackle, while effective, will become waterlogged relatively quickly, particularly if you're catching fish — which, if the fly is doing its job, you will be.

"It will float for not very long. So you will need to treat it — use a little bit of Gink just in the back of that fly, just to help it sit up." — Mario, MF Fly Tying

A floatant like Gink applied sparingly to the hackle and body before the first cast, and reapplied after each fish, will extend the fly's life considerably. Mucilin and other paste or gel floatants work equally well. Some anglers also swear by desiccant powders — a quick shake in a bottle of Frog's Fanny or similar will dry the fly out between fish and restore its floating properties in seconds.

Why Every Stillwater Angler Should Tie This Pattern

Bob's Bits occupies a rare and valuable space in the world of fly patterns: it is simple enough for a beginner to tie in a single evening session, yet sophisticated enough in its fishing behaviour to fool educated trout on heavily pressured waters. It asks very little of the tier in terms of materials or technique, yet gives back generously on the water.

It also serves as a reminder of something the fly fishing world occasionally forgets in its enthusiasm for the latest UV resin creations and intricate synthetic patterns: fish were eating midges long before man invented micro-chenille, and a few turns of natural dubbing and hackle, tied with care and fished with attention, will account for fish season after season.

Whether you're new to fly tying or simply looking to refresh your fly box with a reliable, proven pattern before the next outing, Bob's Bits deserves a place at your vice. Tie a few in sizes 12 and 14, treat them well with floatant, and get them on the water. The rest, as Bob Wartz discovered all those years ago with his old fishing jumper, has a way of taking care of itself.

Quick Reference: Bob's Bits Tying Materials

For those ready to head straight to the vice, here's a concise summary of the materials used in Mario's tying of this classic pattern:

Hook: Fario barbless dry fly and strong, sizes 10–14 (12 and 14 recommended)
Thread: Black
Rib: Brown nickel micro wire (alternatives: mono, black wire, silver wire)
Body: Chuck and Duck hair and squirrel dubbing in black
Hackle: Indian or Chinese cock hackle, proportionate to hook size
Finish: Clear varnish, whip finish
Floatant: Gink, Mucilin, or desiccant powder